Current Issue : October - December Volume : 2019 Issue Number : 4 Articles : 6 Articles
Caesalpinia spinosa gum is a vegetal polysaccharide obtained by grinding the endosperm of\nCaesalpinia spinosa seeds. It is commonly used as a rheology modifier in food industry. Its rheological\nbehavior, compatibility with common cosmetic ingredients, and application as a thickener in\ndifferent types of cosmetic formulations were investigated in this article. At low concentrations\n(0.1-0.2%) the behavior is Newtonian; at higher percentages (0.5-2.0%) it is pseudoplastic without\nthixotropy. The gum was tested in combination with salts, chelating agents, humectants, thickeners,\npigments, nano UV filters, surfactants, conditioners, and ethanol, as well as in acidic/alkaline\nconditions. The wide compatibility and the interesting sensory profile, even in association with other\nthickeners, make the Caesalpinia spinosa gum a very promising ingredient for the thickening of various\ncosmetic products....
Despite a large number of studies reporting a variety of biological and pharmacological activities of Momordica charantia, its skin\nprotective properties are poorly understood. The present study aimed to explore the skin protective properties of Momordica\ncharantia methanol extract (Mc-ME) and the underlying mechanism in keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and melanocytes. Mc-ME\nexhibited an antioxidative property by decreasing radical levels in HaCaT keratinocytes and a cytoprotective property in H2O2-\ndamaged HaCaT cells, which was mediated by increasing the expression or activation of Kelch-like ECH-associated protein 1\n(KEAP1), HO-1, p85/PI3K, and AKT. Mc-ME was also active against wrinkle formation by regulating the activity or expression\nof tissue remodeling factors such as elastase, type 1 collagen, and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and -9 and tissue-protecting\nenzymes such as hemeoxygenase-1 (HO-1) and sirtuin 1 (SIRT1) inNIH3T3 fibroblasts andHaCaT cells, in addition to increasing the\nproliferation of HaCaT cells. Mc-ME also showed antidehydration properties by inducing the expression of natural moisturizing\nfactors such as filaggrin (FLG), transglutaminase-1 (TGM-1), and hyaluronic acid synthase (HAS)-1, -2, and -3 in HaCaT cells.\nMoreover, Mc-ME showed an antimelanogenic property by inhibiting the synthesis and secretion of melanin from B16F10\nmelanoma cells via suppression of tyrosinase activity. Taken together, these results suggest that Mc-ME plays a skin protective\nrole through its antioxidative, cytoprotective, skin remodeling, moisturizing, and antimelanogenic properties and might be a new\nand promising skin protective cosmeceutical....
This study aims to apply deep eutectic solvents (DESs) as safe and ecient extraction\nmedia that could yield maximized skin-related bioactivities from a mixture of long-lived trees.\nGinkgo biloba L., Cinnamomum camphora (L.) J. Presl., and Cryptomeria japonica (L.f.) D. Don, native to\nAsia, were examined as potential resources of cosmeceutical products. Various DESs synthesized\nfrom cosmetics-compatible compounds were used to prepare leaf extracts. A DES containing glycerol\nand xylitol yielded the highest extractability for isoquercetin, and was selected as the optimal solvent.\nIsoquercetin has various bioactivities and was found in the extracts of the leaves of all three trees. Then,\na series of mixtures of the tree leaves were prepared according to a simplex-centroid mixture design,\nand their DES-extracts were tested for skin-related activities, including antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase,\nand anti-elastase activities. The mixture design resulted in two special cubic models and one quadratic\nmodel best fitted for describing the antioxidant and anti-elastase activities, and the anti-tyrosinase\nactivity, respectively. Based on the established models, three dierent optimal formulations of the\nthree kinds of tree leaves were suggested for maximized responses. The present strategy, which is\nbased on the simplex-centroid mixture design with a DES as the extraction solvent, could be applied\nto developing new materials from a mixture of natural resources, suitable for the cosmetics and\nrelated fields....
Olive trees (Olea europaea) and their processed products, such as olive oil, play a major\nrole in the Mediterranean way of life. Their positive impact on human health is being intensely\ninvestigated. One research topic is the identification of new application areas of olive mill wastewater\n(OMWW). OMWW is characterized by the high content of polyphenols possessing many positive\nhealth effects. Thus, the phenol-enriched OMWW extract offers the potential for the treatment of skin\ndisorders and for cosmetic application. The aim of the present study was to evaluate cell viability\nand proliferation, the anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative properties of a phenol-enriched OMWW\nextract on an immortal keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cells). Moreover, the influence on the growth\nof various microorganisms was investigated; furthermore, the effects on normal human epidermal\nkeratinocytes (NHEK) and human melanoma cells (A375) were studied in a commercially available\ntumor invasion skin model. The phenol-enriched OMWW extract showed excellent antimicrobial\nactivity. Moreover, a noticeable reduction in reactive oxygen species formation as well as Interleukin-8\nrelease in HaCaT cells were observed. Finally, the inhibited growth of A375 melanoma nodules in the\nmelanoma skin model could be shown. Our results indicate that the OMWW extract is a promising\ningredient for dermal applications to improve skin health and skin protection as well as having a\npositive impact on skin ageing....
Recently, cannabis, or its major constituent cannabidiol (CBD), has emerged as an attractive\ncosmetic ingredient. Initiated as a basic investigation of the physiological roles of cannabinoid\nreceptors and their endogenous ligands, endocannabinoidsâ?? diverse potential benefits have been\nproposed for using cannabinoid receptor modulating compounds in skin health. Improvement in skin\nbarrier functions, alleviating inflammatory responses, and the relief of itching sensations are some\ncommonly expected therapeutic benefits, which have been supported by many in vitro, in vivo, and\nclinical studies. While hemp seed oils or hemp extracts might be used for the cosmetic formulation,\nthe potential for contamination with a psychoactive cannabinoid, such as 9-THC, should be carefully\nchecked. Instead of using hemp-derived ingredients, the use of cannabinomimetics, synthetic ligands\non cannabinoid receptors, or entourage compounds (which modulate intracellular synthesis and\nthe degradation of endocannabinoids), have been tried. In this review, a brief introduction of the\nepidermal endocannabinoid system (EES) and its physiological roles will be followed by a review\nof the cosmetic and dermatologic application of cannabinomimetics and entourage compounds.\nThe practical application of newly developed endocannabinomimetics will be discussed as well....
Lignins have shown remarkable antioxidant properties; acting as â??scavengersâ? of free\nradicals physiologically produced by cell metabolisms; and exerting a protective action caused\nby the strong ability of these molecules to absorb UV radiation. Through preliminary Molecular\nModeling studies and experimental studies in vivo and in vitro, a lignin hydrolysate compound has\nbeen shown to be an extremely versatile active ingredient, presenting soothing, anti-inflammatory,\nanti-itch, anti-oxidant, anti-aging and anti-pollution properties. The possible fields of application are\ntherefore multiple; making this lignin hydrolysate a particularly interesting ingredient for topical\ndermatological compositions in the treatment of various skin disorders such as inflammation, edema,\nswelling, rash, redness, itching, chrono- and photo-induced skin aging. These manifestations are also\nthe basis of more or less serious skin problems, making lignin hydrolysate capable of being used in\ncosmetic products for the eternal challenge of fighting skin aging, but also in medical devices that can\nbe used to fight more painful and annoying symptoms, like those caused by dermatitis or psoriasis....
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